"Menus Plaisirs" is a film about the Troisgros family and their three restaurants: Troisgros, Le Central and La Colline, located in three neighboring locations in central France. Troisgros, a resta...
Weeks after screening acclaimed director Frederick Wiseman‘s four hour documentary “Menus-Plaisirs: Les Troisgros,” the main thing that has still been on my mind is that unbelievable cheese cart. (Really, it’s one of the most magnificent displays of food I have ever seen). The fact that I can’t stop thinking about this and other aspects of the film is a testament to just how fantastic it really is at capturing incredible behind-the-scenes moments that will have gastronomes salivating.
In the 93-year-old director’s 44th film, Wiseman turns his camera on the Troisgros restaurant in Central France, a destination for serious gastronomes that boasts a prestigious history that few can claim: it has been holding an esteemed 3 Michelin stars for 55 years over four generations (including a Michelin green star in 2020 for “exemplary sustainable practices”). Even more of an achievement is that it is still owned and operated by the same family. It’s a wonderful subject for a documentary, and Wiseman gives an unprecedented look at the ins and out of the restaurant industry.
There are the day-to-day operations and preparations for buying food, training servers, and writing menus. There are debates (and arguments) between the trio of head chefs, father Michel and his two sons César and Léo. The men place high importance on biodiversity and limiting food waste (the restaurant even has its own backyard garden for the freshest, organic ingredients), and the film takes viewers along on their visits to the local market to select fresh vegetables, a vineyard, an organic cattle ranch, and a stunning cheese cave that has now made my bucket list (because here, “each cheese has its moment of truth”).
If you’ve ever wanted to work in a Michelin-starred kitchen, this film is as close as most of us are ever going to get. Wiseman lets his camera capture the behind-the-scenes prep work and plating, which runs like a well-choreographed, elegant ballet. It’s incredible how quietly the kitchen operates, with a culinary team that know their roles and play them perfectly without the need for much chatter. Every plate is gorgeous, and every bite designed to deliver perfection.
Some of the more interesting discussions are the ones the family has about creating a menu, with the chefs making decisions about texture, color, and flavors with an ingenuity that can only come from natural talent and instinct. The food imagery is absolutely gorgeous, and the documentary is so immersive that I felt as though I had actually dined at Troisgros by the time the film was over.
Wiseman captures the front of house too, including the way the team of servers handle guest requests with poise and grace and the careful planning that goes into dinner service every night. And most foodies will get a relatable chuckle out of the tables of diners who all immediately whip out their cell phones as soon as their meals arrive, eager to take photos and capture the moment.
“Menus-Plaisirs: Les Troisgros” is one of the best films about food ever made, and it’s an outstanding achievement in documentary filmmaking. Fun and insightful, it should be considered a must-see for anyone who loves and admires the artistry of cuisine.
